Oaxacan Weaving Traditions
Martinez Studio Process
Weaving traditions
Woven textiles have been an indispensable part of human life since the beginning. The earliest known weavings date to 100,000 years ago. Yet it is unknown how weaving technology spread- or was reinvented, in various places around the world during ancient times.
In the Americas, weaving predated ceramic making, agriculture, and village life. Cotton in Mexico, and cotton and camelid wool in Peru (an influential trading partner), were cultivated as early as 3000 BC to create the first textiles. Weaving was done by hand in the same method used to produce plant fiber mats. This experience of combining warp and weft to create a single structure led to the invention of the weaving loom. It is unknown how and when these ancient weaving traditions developed in Teotitlán del Valle, Oaxaca, Mexico. However, Zapotec weaving traditions can be traced to as early as 500 BC.
Monte Alban, Oaxaca, founded around 500 BC, was one of the first cities in Mesoamerica and the pre-eminent Zapotec socio-political and economic center for nearly 1000 years.
In Ancient times, Mesoamerican people such as the Zapotec flourished due to great advances in technology and society; notably the development of calendars, writing systems, city-states, political systems, and agriculture. The rise of dependable and efficient agriculture had a profound impact on daily life- it created a stable foundation which allowed people to specialize in occupation and become masters in specific craft.
In Oaxaca, the formation of the urban center at San Jose Mogote from 1500-500 BC, followed by the rise of Monte Alban in 500 BC, created a city-state system that affected the entire region. This gave rise to villages such as Teotitlán del Valle that specialized in specific crafts (ceramics, textiles, etc.) needed for urban life. Specialized goods created by master craftsmen were traded in urban centers throughout the region and the Americas. In the case of Teotitlán del Valle, the village became known as the village of weavers- a reputation it keeps to the present day.
Ancient Traditions, Modern-Day Artisans
Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca, maintains its reputation to the present day as the village of 5000 weavers.
Changing ideas, materials, and influences have evolved the textile tradition of Teotitlán del Valle over its 2,500-year history. Prior to the Spanish arrival, only plant fibers were used to make textiles. Today, wool from sheep introduced by the Spanish is common. Backstrap looms were early technology, today weavers use wooden treadle frame looms also introduced by the Spanish. Dye materials range from traditional plant, mineral, and insect materials collected locally by hand, to more modern aniline dyes. Traditional Zapotec patterns that reflect ancient beliefs are common themes, as well as contemporary designs. The modern-day artisans in Teotitlán del Valle follow a living textile tradition that has been woven into village life since ancient times.
Spinning the Thread
Finest quality hand spun wool yarns are made by local artisans in Teotitlán del Valle, Oaxaca using traditional spinning methods that have been passed down for generations.
Dyeing The Yarn
Dyestuff is gathered from local natural materials and processed using traditional recipes to color the yarn.
Designing The Tapestry
Wence Martinez draws inspiration for his weaving designs from both Zapotec traditions and the beauty of the natural world.
The idea for the tapestry begins with the artists’ observations and experience, transformed into shapes and colors to create an original design to be woven on the loom.
The loom is prepared and the design is transferred onto the warp to act as a guide during the weaving process.
Weaving
The act of weaving is a meditative and creative process. Minute decisions regarding color and pattern are made line by line and one thread at a time.
Master weaver Wence Martinez draws upon a lifetime of weaving experience to create intricate and timeless works of art. He incorporates the many techniques he learned both from his Zapotec heritage and from his experience studying weaving with master artists in Mexico City in his youth.
He is dedicated to passing down his experience and traditions to the next generations of weavers in Teotitlán del Valle, Oaxaca, Mexico.
